Small towns hold a lot of appeal because of their quintessential charm and laid-back nature. They are hidden gems and I’m always seeking them out to visit as they’re typically close to nature with easy access to hiking and outdoor activities. Family-owned shops and restaurants are usually the norm as opposed to large chain stores and eateries.
One of my all-time favorite places to visit is Stevenson, which sits in the heart of the Columbia River Gorge, on the Washington side. About a 50-minute drive from the Oregon border, nestled in Skamania County, this town is less than two square miles with 1656 residents. Skamania comes from sk’mániak, a word from the Cascade Chinook Indians, which translates to “swift waters.”
Native Americans inhabited Stevenson and surrounding areas for thousands of years before settlers arrived in the early 1800s. The town is aptly named for the Stevenson family, who hailed from Missouri and eventually purchased the town in 1893 for $24,000. By the 1900s it was a thriving location with saloons, shops, hotels, and a booming logging industry. Additionally, it was a passage for the Spokane, Portland and Seattle Railway, which connected travelers to large cities in the Pacific Northwest.
Set up basecamp at Tenzen Springs, a dream that has been 20 years in the making. The property merges Japanese onsen, or hot springs culture, and Scandinavian spa traditions in a serene and harmonious setting. Recently opened in late 2022, owners Nanae and Nick Yoshida want to share the gift of the geothermal hot springs with their guests. When Nick’s mother developed arthritis, they would bring her to visit nearby hot springs, where she seemed to feel better. Many believe the earth’s springs provide healing properties for skin conditions, reducing stress levels, and possible help with pain management. Nestled on a bluff across 100 sprawling acres sits six individual cabins where visitors have their own geothermal tub, a steam-sauna shower, and an outdoor shower. Nanae emphasized that the waters which flow into the soaking tubs are all-natural geothermal water, which is filtered through their water system.
The cabins are 250 square feet and open up to an additional 600 square feet of spa space. The cabins are like tiny homes with smartly designed storage spaces and ample room to move around. All the units have kitchenettes, with some cabins offering a stovetop and others a microwave. The unit I stayed in, cabin 5, had a stove top which was convenient for making quick meals and making tea. Set in the corner is a thoughtful nook, where a pull-out desk can be used as a working space or for meals. Cabins reflect minimalist Scandinavian design, with neutral tones, an exposed wooden bedframe, and simple pull-down shades. Large vertical windows throughout the unit allows sunlight to filter in and gives the feeling of being inside a treehouse, among the canopy forest outside.
Bathrooms are spacious and bright, with amenities you might have forgotten at home such as a new toothbrush and toothpaste, facial wash, and make up remover. The luxe shower has a button which activates steam as you enjoy your private spa retreat. The bathroom connects to a covered patio with a soaking tub and outdoor shower. Double doors can be opened to views of towering Douglas firs. Listen to chirping birds and the howl of the wind as you relax in your tub. The location can’t get any better than this. The owners of Tenzen Springs are planning to build another six cabins, starting in May. During construction, they will remain open, but will offer discounts to visitors.
Each morning, as I sat outside to sip my coffee, a herd of Elk grazed in the meadow not far from where I was. They didn’t pay me any mind as I watched them with fascination. If you are up for a hike, the Wind Mountain Trail is a short 5-minute drive away. Though you can walk there from your cabin, I wouldn’t recommend it as the roads are windy and there is no shoulder. The trail is a 2.4-mile out and back with an elevation gain of over 1,100 feet. Make sure to wear hiking shoes with good traction, especially if it is raining. While there is tons of hiking available nearby, another great one is Beacon Rock State Park, a 20-minute drive away, which has hiking and biking trails. It’s a 1.5-mile out and back with an elevation increase of 574 feet, offering rewarding views of the gorge.
Stevenson’s main downtown is a quick 9-minute drive away, where you’ll find plenty of shops and restaurants. One of my favorite stops was Red Bluff Tap House, a gastropub featuring the bounty of the Pacific Northwest. On Fridays, they have a Thai menu, which made for a delicious lunch. On the main menu, their burgers are top-notch. For something extra indulgent, order their signature mac pasta, smothered in cheesy goodness. The Big River Grill is a casual eatery serving sandwiches, salads, and a good selection of craft beers. If you’re a seafood fan, you won’t want to miss their salmon cake appetizers and fish and chips. On Saturdays and Sundays, they serve breakfast. You can’t get any more authentic than Clark & Lewie’s Travelers Rest Saloon & Grill, served in a historic building, with plenty of outdoor seating and beautiful views of the water. Stop by Saturdays for live music; this is a great pick for date night.
You must stop and browse the wares at Traverse PNW Market. Owners Tabatha Wiggins and Robyn Legun welcome you to their store stocked with curated gifts, baked goods, and much more. The market is a labor of love for both women and their mission is to celebrate the mountains and surrounding beauty in their town. There’s nothing I enjoy more than sifting through independent book shops like North Bank Books Though small, it carries a good selection of books on local history and culture. It’s a great way to support small businesses and spend a lovely afternoon. I was surprised to come across a skate shop in this mountain town, but SKA. CO. Skates shelves are lined with all sorts of decorative skateboards. The Columbia Gorge Interpretive Center Museum is chock full of historical facts, exhibits, and also houses a gift shop worth visiting. If you’re up for the 30-minute drive and you’re interested in water sports, head to Hood River, the windsurfing capital of the world.
After a day full of activity, it feels nice knowing you can return to your own private retreat where you can soak, steam, and repeat.
Jean Chen Smith is a freelance journalist who considers the Pacific Northwest home. With a love of travel and storytelling, her intention is to create content to inspire and connect people to places, things, and experiences. Her articles have appeared in AARP, Travel and Leisure, 1859 magazine, Insider Travel, USA Today, Family Vacationist, The Oregonian, SFGATE, weekand.com, and more.When not writing or teaching Pilates at her studio, she enjoys trail running, spending time with her pups Tonka and Paisley, and reading suspense novels. http://www.jeanchensmith.com.
